This morning I had a ‘totally awesome’ surf session. It felt so good to get back out on a board – I think I’m at my happiest when I’m flying down the face of a wave, with a big grin on my face. I have a 7’6″ board at home, and today I surfed a 7’2″ board and it felt amazing – I felt really nippy and light on the waves. The surf was great – clean, regular, around 3 foot. Nice and easy for a slightly wussy surfer like me, who gets a bit scared by the big stuff!
Getting to the beach was funny. Six of us from the hostel crammed into an ancient Subaru, with six boards balanced precariously on the roof-rack, reggae music blaring. A French guy offered to drive us, and we ended up going round two roundabouts the wrong way – luckily Raglan is really small with hardly any traffic, and most of the other drivers are incredibly laid-back surfers, so no road rage ensued. The directions to the beach from the hostel staff consisted of a vaguely wafted hand in the rough direction and a photo stuck to the windscreen of the turn-off point. Funnily enough, it worked out fine.
When we came back, after everyone devouring mountains of carbs (nothing makes you as hungry as surfing, in my opinion – except possibly mountain biking), it was into the bubbling hot tub, which felt like some magic, health-promoting well of eternal life. Total bliss.
I then fell asleep whilst reading in a hammock and afterwards realised that I’d been walking round with book print stuck to my cheek. My mind has been turning more and more towards getting a tattoo whilst I’m out here, but that wasn’t quite what I had in mind. And now I am, once again, in the local library – this library wi-fi phenonemon is ‘sweet as’, to quote the kiwis’ (and the travellers who have been here long enough) favourite turn of phrase.
Below are a couple of photos taken from the hostel – if we go out surfing again tomorrow, I’ll try and get a photo of the poor, over-loaded Subaru.
Raglan Backpackers is located immediately adjacent to the mouth of this estuarine river, which you can kayak up from the hostel. I can’t remember the name of the mountain in the distance, but there’s a path leading to it from the door.
This is the central courtyard of the hostel, where I was, up until quite recently, asleep in a hammock… 🙂